Kaede no Yoseue: A Grouped Planting of Maples
by Hiroshi Takeyama
A "grouped planting" is the creation of a scene through plating multiple trees in one container. It realistically expresses natural scenes such as a grove of slender trees with sunlight passing through their leaves, a grove of wild pines growing along the shoreline, or an untouched forest deep within the mountains. It is something that beginners of bonsai can easily become accustomed to. A grouped planting may exclude individual trees with gifts that can be appreciated singly, and it may contain young trees which were seedlings or cutting not too long ago. In any case, through harmonizing the characteristics of its many trees, this familiar type of bonsai can be a beautiful decoration. Here, the basic rules and techniques for creating a grouped planting will be introduced. Maple trees are used in this case, and the main tree is about twenty years old with a height of 65cm.
Photo 1
When making a grouped planting, the collection of the trees is most important. Success depends on whether or not a rich variety of trees, thick or slender, tall or short, with the main tree used as a standard, can be collected. Ideally, one should collect at least twice the number of trees that will be sued for the grouped planting. Also, instead of using trees that have been raised separately, it is best for the sake of their future use in the grouped planting to temporarily have the trees planted together and cultivated in a shallow container. If there are no trees of this sort available, use trees with no lower branches and many short limbs. In any case, it is important to collect trees with similar leaves.
Photo 2
When making a grouped planting, since the trees will be planted quite closely together, the roots are cut drastically short. Also, for the roots' sake, this step must be done before the new buds appear on the tree.
Photo 3
A shallow, elliptical container is the best type for a grouped planting. The corner sections of rectangular containers are difficult to deal with as they tend to have open spaces in the composition. Even so, sometimes long and narrow containers can express a unique feeling.
Photo 4
For the soil, I use only "granulated earth," but there is nothing wrong with using the soil you are accustomed to. The soil is moistened enough so that it may be shaped into a ball when gently squeezed. In the grouped planting creation process, using the moistened earth allows us to fix the location of the individual trees. Wires are sometimes used to do this, but by using the weight of the soil alone, corrections and small adjustments can easily be made. With normal transplants, moistening the soil is considered taboo because this keeps it from fitting firmly between the roots, but this is not something to worry about in the case of a grouped planting because the roots are cut to the extreme.
Photo 5
While the trees' positions are decided on, the roots are covered with soil and fixed into place. There is a surprising amount of stability provided by the soil's weight. It is very helpful to have an assistant on hand at this time.
Photo 6
When making a grouped planting, first the location of the main tree is decided on. The tree is set so that it bends towards the center of the container when placed 3/10 of the container's width from the left or tight side, and it is positioned 3/10 of the container's depth from the front.
Photo 7
Next, the surrounding trees (for the main group) are decided on.
Photo 8
In the next step, the "hanedashi", or outer group of trees, is placed in the large open space to the left. The slightly taller "uke", or inner group of trees is placed to the right. All the trees should be placed so that the smaller ones remain in the back. Through this perspective, the depth of the presentation is expressed, and the feeling of a deep woods is evoked. The importance behind the trees' placement is this expression of depth. The placement of the trees, and the spacing between individual trees, is more important than anything else. One must understand the fundamental concept that when the trees are not regularly and equally spaced, it causes them to overlap when viewed from the front. Aside form this, the designer may freely show his or her own tastes in the work.
Photo 9
The trees have all been placed. At this point, the angles and position of the individual trees may still be given small adjustments.
Photo 10
While the tree's positions are given a final check, soil is carefully inserted between their roots. It is then pressed down firmly by hand or with an iron press to stabilize it. After that, overlapping branches, branches which cut across the trunks of the other trees, and any branches which ruin the balance of the work are pruned back. As the work progresses, pruning may be done if concerns about the completion of the overall image arise.
Photo 11
Moss is placed over the soil, and the presentation is complete. The moss does not just improve the beauty of the bonsai; it has the advantage of preventing the mounded soil from eroding or drying out, while also holding down the soil and increasing the tree's stabilization. If moss is not available, sphagnum moss, when cut find and laid down, is also effective. After finishing, the greatest concern is exposure to the wind. Until the bonsai begins to bud, it should be cared for in a sunlit room and sprayed well with water. After that, it is placed outside, but full attention should be given to any changes in the weather. The bonsai will probably be stable after six months. It can be transplanted after four to five years. At that time, the roots will be well bound together, so there will be no lose soil when it is removed from its container.
In this example, many trees were used to make a large grouped planting, but when making a smaller version the basic steps are no different. Please attempt the challenge.